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St Paul Street has witnessed a lot of history since Montreal fur trading days.

ST Paul, the oldest street in one of North America oldest cities, runs through the heart of Old Montreal. It barely a mile long, but its first cobblestones predated American democracy, and its restaurants, shops and galleries are tucked into some great old buildings van cleef onyx earrings replica.

I had never seen St Paul, or the rest of Montreal, until last July, when I arrived for a four night stay near the city Old Town area replica van cleef and arpels clover earrings. But every time I spotted another tempting restaurant or gallery, it seemed to be on St Paul Street. Inuit art. Salt cod croquettes. Echoes of Leonard Cohen.

As fall arrives, leaves turn and temperatures sink, the appeal of those snug spots will only grow.

you have all these canoes arriving and unloading the furs into the houses along St Paul Street. And they eventually get put onto ships to sail to France, he said.

As the city grew in the 19th century, the neighbourhood gained warehouses and lost residences. By the 1950s, many of the city most vital businesses had moved elsewhere, and Old Montreal had become a run down, largely neglected neighbourhood.

was talk of demolishing a lot of the old buildings, Wood said.

Instead, preservationists won the day. By the 1980s, the tourism industry had seized on the neighbourhood historic feel as a marketing tool especially at the eastern end of St Paul, near Place Jacques Cartier, where T shirt shops congregate. (I could complain about the pandering of Canadian Maple Delights and its Maple Museum, but I must admit that the maple chunk gelato there is pretty good.)

The street western end, meanwhile, become a cool place to have offices Wood said, mentioning recently arrived marketing firms and game designers.

All the prime spots I listed in this guide are on St Paul except for a 152m detour to the Place d to see one of the most spectacular church interiors in North America. The museum celebrates the city first teacher, a devout 33 year old Catholic woman who arrived from France in 1653. In those days, the settlement was known as Ft Ville Marie, a French outpost in Iroquois territory along the St Lawrence River. By 1658, Bourgeoys was teaching children and adults reading, writing and pioneer skills, and lobbying for a chapel. (She was canonised in 1982.)

Even if you not stirred by her story, you may be by the archaeological site downstairs, which covers 2,400 years of human history. And if all else fails, you can climb the museum wooden spiral stairs. They will deliver you to some great bird views, including a well oxidised copper angel and the silvery dome of the nearby March Bonsecours.

From the same entrance that serves the museum, you can step into Notre Dame de Bon Secours Chapel, built in 1771. Since the 19th century, the chapel has been known as Montreal sailors church, and miniature wooden boats dangle from the ceiling. The building was raised in 1847, served as City Hall into the 1870s and was Montreal principal market for more than a century van cleef and arpels butterfly earrings replica. Closed in the 1960s and restored in the early 1990s, it now an artsy retail centre with 15 galleries and boutiques offering clothes, crafts, art and jewellery made in the province of Quebec. There are also three restaurants. If that sounds a bit much, bear in mind that Le Cabaret du Roy is a themed eatery that mimicks an 18th century pirates den.

Place Jacques Cartier, a public square, might be the busiest tourist space in all of Montreal, full of sidewalk caf quick sketch artists, street performers and horse drawn carriages. Besides patio dining in a charming space, the restaurant frequently offers live jazz. (Dinner main dishes US$15 US$26 (RM53 RM92).

As for the square, it named after the 16th century French explorer who claimed Canada for France, but its tallest feature is the 35m tall Nelson Column, raised in 1809 as homage to British Vice Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson. Look down the hill and you see boats along the port. Look up and you see the 1870s City Hall, site of a major moment in Canada long simmering Anglophone Francophone cultural war. The upstairs balcony is where French President Charles de Gaulle said, le Qu libre! in 1967, escalating tensions in the debate over whether the Francophone province should seek sovereignty from Canada. Designed with handsome exposed brickwork, it has 44 rooms, 61 suites, a ground floor restaurant (Verses) and a rooftop terrace bar/brasserie in summer.

Named after the Francophone poet Nelligan, Hotel Nelligan in Old Montreal is a luxe lodging.

Its namesake, Montreal Francophone poet Nelligan, is admired for his 160 or so poems, all written before age 20, when he was institutionalised for schizophrenia and after which he apparently wrote no more. (He died in 1941.) If I had an anniversary to celebrate, I stay here. Rooms for two are typically US$165 US$400 (RM583 RM1,414) in fall.

The Place d 152m off St Paul, is another busy public space with excellent people watching and witty public art. Don miss the sculpted man with the English bulldog and the sculpted woman with the French poodle. My stay coincided with the 35th annual Montreal Jazz Festival, which is one of the city biggest events, so I wasn surprised to stumble upon a jazz trio warming up in one corner of the square. (The 2015 festival will take place June 26 July 5.)

There plenty of striking architecture to see from the square too, although I wouldn count the exterior of the Notre Dame Basilica, designed by James O as a big thrill: the face it shows to the square (construction was completed in 1829, with towers added in the 1840s) is boxy and dull. The inside, however, will bowl you over.

Its Gothic Revival interior, mostly completed in the 1870s, is a blue and gold marvel of detail and grandeur, said to have been inspired by Sainte Chapelle in Paris. Singer C Dion and Ren Ang were married here in 1994, and funeral services for former Canadian Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau were held here in 2000. It also a sign that you entered a stretch of St Paul Street that packed with restaurants from casual to snooty. Staying casual, I also sampled Cantinho de Lisboa (tasty Portuguese salt cod croquettes, US$1.30 / RM4.60) each) at 356 St Paul West. Other options include Venti (Italian) at 372 St Paul West, Les Pyr (Basque) at 320 St Paul West, Ghandi (Indian) at 230 St Paul West and Stash Caf (Polish) at 200 St Paul West. No eater should limit himself to one neighbourhood in a city renowned for its smoked meat, bagels and poutine, but it is convenient to have quality and quantity handy.

From LAX, Air Canada offers non stop service to Montreal, and United, Delta, American, Air Canada and US Airways offer connecting service (change of planes). Restricted round trip fares start from US$777 (RM2,747), including all taxes and fees. Los Angeles Times/Tribune News Service

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